Induction Hob Problems: Pan Detection, Noise and Error Codes

Induction hobs behave differently from every other kind of cooking surface, and most reported faults are the technology working as designed rather than a failure. Understanding what the hob is actually doing explains nearly all of the common complaints.

This guide covers pan detection, the noises, error codes and cleaning.

Error code tables and zone dimensions differ between hobs, and Electrolux publishes a different mapping for each model generation.

How induction actually works

A coil beneath the glass generates a changing magnetic field. That field induces currents in a ferrous pan base, and those currents heat the pan directly. The hob surface itself is not a heat source — it warms only by conduction from the pan sitting on it.

Three consequences follow, and they explain most complaints. The pan must be magnetic or nothing happens. The hob responds instantly, unlike a ceramic element. And the surface stays comparatively cool, so spills do not burn on the way they do on a ceramic hob.

Pan detection problems

The most common complaint by a wide margin, and almost always the cookware.

• Test with a fridge magnet. If it does not stick firmly to the base of the pan, the pan will not work on induction. Aluminium, copper and most stainless steel without a ferrous base will not.

• Check the base diameter. Each zone has a minimum, and a small pan on a large zone may not be detected at all. This is why small milk pans often fail on the biggest ring.

• Check the base is flat. A warped or convex base makes poor contact and detects intermittently.

• Centre the pan on the zone. Off-centre placement reduces coupling and can drop detection.

• Some pans marked induction-compatible have only a thin ferrous disc bonded to the base, which can delaminate over time and stop working.

The noises

Induction hobs make sounds that other hobs do not, and none of these are faults:

• A hum or buzz at high power, most noticeable with lightweight or multi-layer pans. It is the layers of the pan base vibrating in the magnetic field.

• Clicking or ticking at low power settings. At low output the hob pulses the coil on and off rather than running continuously, and the pan base responds to each pulse.

• Fan noise, sometimes continuing for several minutes after everything is switched off. The electronics beneath the glass need cooling and the fan runs until they are cool.

• A crackling sound with multi-ply pans, again from the layers responding differently to the field.

Heavier pans with thicker bases are consistently quieter. If noise bothers you, that is the variable to change rather than the hob.

Error codes and what they generally indicate

Code meanings are model-specific, but they fall into recognisable families:

• Pan-related codes — no pan detected, pan unsuitable, or pan too small for the zone.

• Temperature codes — the electronics beneath the glass have overheated, usually from prolonged high-power use or blocked ventilation.

• Supply codes — voltage outside the expected range, which on a hob wired to a dedicated circuit can indicate an installation issue.

• Lock codes — the child lock or control lock is active, which is a setting rather than a fault and catches people out constantly.

• Sensor and communication codes — a service matter.

Before treating a code as a fault, check for a control lock and try a power cycle at the isolator for several minutes. Transient codes after a supply interruption are common and clear on reset.

Ventilation

The electronics under the glass need airflow, drawn through vents in the hob housing. On a built-in installation those vents open into the cabinet below.

• Check the specified gap between the hob underside and any drawer or shelf below.

• Do not store tightly packed items directly beneath the hob if the design draws air from there.

• Repeated overheat codes with clean vents and correct clearances point to an installation problem rather than an appliance fault.

Cleaning and protecting the glass

• Wipe spills as soon as the surface is cool enough. Induction surfaces cool quickly, which makes this easier than on a ceramic hob.

• Sugar and anything containing it must be removed immediately, even from a warm surface, because it can pit the glass permanently.

• Use a dedicated hob cleaner and a scraper held at a shallow angle for burnt-on residue.

• Never use abrasive pads or powders, which dull the surface irreversibly.

• Check pan bases for grit. The commonest cause of fine scratching is a pan dragged across the glass with a trapped particle underneath. Lift rather than slide.

• Never stand a hot pan on a cold hob and then slide it — thermal stress plus friction is the worst combination for the surface.

Because the same symptom means different things on different hobs, an online manual library is the fastest way to confirm what a specific code indicates.

Ceramic hobs, which are not the same thing

A ceramic hob uses a radiant element under the glass, so the surface genuinely gets hot, works with any pan material, retains heat after switch-off, and burns on spills. If your hob glows red under the pan, it is ceramic rather than induction and most of the pan-detection advice above does not apply.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my pan work on one zone but not another?

Almost always base diameter against zone minimum. Try it on a smaller zone.

Is the residual heat indicator a fault when nothing was cooking?

No. The glass absorbs heat from the pan, so it can be warm even though the hob never generated heat directly.

Can I use a diffuser plate with non-magnetic pans?

Technically yes, and it removes most of the efficiency and responsiveness that make induction worth having. Check your hob's documentation, as some manufacturers advise against them.